Yesterday I had the most wonderful day of photographic wanderings in Punavuori, and once again my heart was filled with tremendous love for Helsinki. It sounds a bit dramatic, like how the characters speak in Victorian novels. But it's true, it's the place where I want to be - and luckily am!
Punavuori, Rödberget in Swedish, translates as 'Red Mountain'. It's one of the (locally) legendary inner city districts of Helsinki in the southern part of the city (map). The district's name comes from shore cliffs that used to be between the modern Sepänkatu and Punavuorenkatu streets and were called Rödberget in 17th century documents due to their reddish hue. Punavuori, though, did not become the official name of the district until 1959. The eastern part of the district has long had apartment buildings, whereas the western section, 'Rööperi' (city slang, comes from the Swedish name), was in the late 19th century an area of low, wooden working class housing. The wood houses were subsequently replaced with apartment buildings. Punavuori was still in the 1970s a restless working class district.
Nowadays the rough past is romanticized, which I'm sure is one of the reasons why the wealthier, trendy folks want to move there and add to the long-established local population. Their desire was probably not abated by Rööperi, a film that was made last year, about the professional criminals of the neighbourhood in the 60s and 70s. It's fictional but based on real events, on a book called 'Rööperi - the years of crime 1955-2005', by crime novelist Harri Nykänen and Tom Sjöberg, a former criminal who was himself born and did business in Punavuori. In reality there's nothing romantic about a city district controlled by criminals. Even so, this sort of a past gives Punavuori a certain edge and excitement, which are lacking for example in the otherwise similar neighbouring Ullanlinna, with its more upper-classy character. You have street cred if you can say that you have a place in Punavuori. The district's popularity is reflected in things like the proliferation of trendy design shops, cafes, bars, vinyl record stores and such.
Nowadays the rough past is romanticized, which I'm sure is one of the reasons why the wealthier, trendy folks want to move there and add to the long-established local population. Their desire was probably not abated by Rööperi, a film that was made last year, about the professional criminals of the neighbourhood in the 60s and 70s. It's fictional but based on real events, on a book called 'Rööperi - the years of crime 1955-2005', by crime novelist Harri Nykänen and Tom Sjöberg, a former criminal who was himself born and did business in Punavuori. In reality there's nothing romantic about a city district controlled by criminals. Even so, this sort of a past gives Punavuori a certain edge and excitement, which are lacking for example in the otherwise similar neighbouring Ullanlinna, with its more upper-classy character. You have street cred if you can say that you have a place in Punavuori. The district's popularity is reflected in things like the proliferation of trendy design shops, cafes, bars, vinyl record stores and such.
The district is completely gentrified, but it remains an area of urban diversity. It also has an open and friendly, lively and young mood - not least because of the young student population for whom the area's many small apartments are ideal. The mood is why Punavuori is my favourite district of Helsinki, along with Kallio. The open mood seemed to me yesterday to be reflected in the open arch ways to the inner courtyards of the 100-year-old apartment buildings. The courtyards are sometimes almost labyrinthine, with other archways leading to other parts, narrow passages, edges and niches. Closed off from all sides (apart from the archways of course), you have the tall building walls rising up towards the sky around you, with balconies and windows. These buildings are not terribly tall, seven storeys at most, but one gets the impression of tallness and narrowness, as if of a chute. It's wonderful to go in the courtyards and look up and around and think about things. What was it like for a child 70, 80 years ago to grow up in such a place? What is it like now? They are their own world, these interiors of inner city blocks, so different from the 60s blocks of flats of the suburbs, let alone the single-family houses of the countryside.
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The previous time when I was thinking about how happy I am to live in Helsinki was on sunday. It was another day of walking and finding things - a fan's dedication, misspelt, oddly moving, to Michael Jackson, written on a bench by the Töölönlahti bay; in Kamppi, a neighbouring district to Punavuori, behind a closed kiosks and close to a public toilet, a small, wooden stand which someone had humorously named 'Griin Stage'; a big, pink heart and the message 'love each other', painted on the wall of the aforementioned kiosk. In between my wanderings I went to Kiasma, the museum of modern art, and as usual found something that elevated my spirit. I was particularly impressed by the video installation of Finnish and Swedish artists, with a series of video screens hung up as if in a forest, each of the screens showing in turn a conflict situation in different professions. The installation seemed to me a powerful comment on the modern working life. I was also affected by the exhibition of Denise Grünstein, one of Sweden's foremost photographers, especially the series depicting human figures in nature, sometimes mysterious, sometimes even threatening. Click HERE for one of the pictures. My day ended perfectly with a free concert of the youth choir Cantores Minores in one of the churches. I'll just repeat what I said in Facebook: "Moved by the glorious, beautiful music; amazed that human voices can create such complex, magnificent worlds of sound. And Sibelius' Finlandia as third and final encore."
To end, one thing (one of the many things) I'm amazed about is the (seemingly) sudden explosion of green in the city. It is green everywhere where there are trees lining the streets - like there are in the pedestrian section of the Iso-Roobertin katu street in Punavuori. Of course they are there in winter too but you sort of don't register them because of the bare branches. It's quite amazing how the green, especially the exuberant green of spring and early summer, changes a street.
6 comments:
I love reading about other people's cities. There is something quite magical about city life, all the different neighbourhoods and characteristics. I feel quite fortunate that in Canada, we have a rather European flavour in our cities, and that people still love to live in them rather than away like in some parts of the US.
xx
AM
I completely agree with you. I especially love the fact that in a city each city district has its own character: buildings, people, mood.
It's interesting the different development in the U.S. and Canada, despite the two countries being in the same continent and neighbouring countries. I wonder if the feel of the cities in Canada could have something to do with the fact that the country has a similar welfare system to Europe? Or what do you think is the main reason for it?
Great post, Maria. Although I don't know if I've been near the parts you mention, at least I have a sense of Helsinki's flavour, and as you know, I really liked the city too. Your photo is great here. I love the angles of the buildings against the sky.
I'm not really an urban animal myself, despite having grown up in London. Still, I tend to get fond of cities I live in whatever their reputation might be, and I think it has to do with appreciating just what you mention here - the individual character of different neighbourhoods and how you get to know them
Val, just curious... why do you think you're not an urban animal? Is it precisely because you grew up in London and therefore sort of had enough of the urban living? Or is it something more personal?
Loved to learn about Punavuori and of Sweden's earlier naming influence. I think Israel was founded in around the same year, or close. My world history is a bit messy or as misspelled as the sweet dedication you captured and shared here.
I love the drama. No Victorian sound in my ears. Then the lovely shot by Denise G. There's drama and it's okay.
best,
Gina
ps: my word verification here was redge
Maria, I just feel terribly weighed down by city life and I miss the the endless horizons of the country. Whenever I leave Rotterdam at the weekends, it's like shrugging off a load. The noise and clamour of cities is just too much for me.
I know I grew up in London, but in fact it was an extremely quiet and green neighbourhood. I remember loving the sounds of the birds and the breeze in the trees. These days all I hear is pile drivers, cars screeching, sirens and people yelling at each other. Not my favourite world!
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